Liberty Ridge-Jay“Jay, I’m having second thoughts about this!” I’m having some shoulder twinges that I’m concerned with,” Brian said with some trepidation. I could see the doubt in Brian’s eyes and I knew most of that was self-induced. I felt like Brian’s climbing ability was ready to evolve and he shouldn’t sell himself short. “Brian, it looks worse than it is. The ridge is solid, the trail is there, and we have the good weather. You can do it”, I said, conveying my confidence in his abilities. The turn-back point was now or never. I realized the trip to Thumb Rock now would be shorter and safer than a late afternoon trip through the Carbon and back to the place where we had lunch. The Ridge was just as I said it was, a straightforward ascent with no loose rock and no hidden surprises. The lower part of the ridge was a small prelude of the climbing to come. I knew if Brian and I could overcome the mental issues, the climbing section up to Thumb Rock, the self-doubt and the shoulder pain, we could do the whole climb. We proceeded. The kick-steps in the softening snow were still solid. Each ice axe placement was confident and Brian was feeling much better. Gaining large amounts of elevation, we finished strong at Thumb Rock. Mutt and Jeff, as promised, had a bivy site picked out for us. Brian and I were the last two climbers at Thumb Rock that night. Room was tight for our bivy because 10 other climbers occupied the area no bigger than a two-car garage. We had to cut deeply into the 45-degree slope in order to create sleeping platforms for ourselves. For Brian, it was the step into a New World of climbing. For me, it was a day of thoughtful choices and decision-making. For both of us, “Thumb Rock was our well deserved rest and our reward!”Day Three Well, it’s 4 AM and I woke up to the sound of voices eager to get climbing. Brian and I stayed in our sleeping bags until several climbing parties left before we started to gear up. Seeing a hint of the orange-tinted sunrise in the east on darkened clouds swirling together, we savored the moment; mentally taking in the rare views as darkness turned to morning. Eating a quick breakfast, we packed everything back into the backpacks leaving out the essential climbing gear for this great climbing task ahead of us. We were fully equipped: each of us wearing harnesses, crampons, helmet, then tied into the rope and an ice ax in each hand. We went forward to conquer. Taking the straightforward route leading us up a 50-degree ice shoot, Brian set up the belay and I proceed to lead the climb, placing pickets as needed. The slope began to ease and coming to the end of the rope, it was my turn to belay him. Brian cleaned the lead and proceeded to finish out the snow slope on lead. With daylight upon us, and the first of the three crux parts past us, we were having fun. Climbing at 11,500 ft and above consisted of endless weaving through hard icy snow and rocky terrain. We stayed on the ridge with a consistent 45-degree angle of ascent. Always looking upward, this sustained type of climbing is not for novices. Screeching to a Halt Our upward progress was halted by a pedestrian traffic jam at the entrance to the second crux of the climb known as the Black Pyramid. Brian and I quickly caught up to two parties in front of us. Mutt and Jeff were the first ones through the crux followed by a five-man guided group following behind. The progress was slow due to the entrance on to the three pitches of 50 to 60-degree climbing above, and the threat of the lower cliffs of the Black Pyramid below. One wrong move and the climbers would tumble 3,000 ft to their deaths. To stay safely out of the other climbers’ fall-zone, Brian and I waited for over a ½ hour. It was 10AM and the snow was starting to soften. Another 20 minutes passed and finally the last climber was out of sight. Now it’s our turn. Speed was of the essence. As I took the lead, the kick steps made by the previous climbers offered a quick ascent around the Black Pyramid. We decided to simu-climb the three pitches of a 50 to 60 degree snow slope. Being roped in and using our ice axes as our only protection, we proceeded up and over the second crux of the climb. Moving up and around the pyramid took its toll on us, physically. The thinning air made it hard to breathe. Brian moved steadily and didn’t seem overly concerned by the sheer drop into the Carbon Glacier. His earlier apprehensions seem to be a distant memory and I noticed he was now climbing with renewed confidence. The snow slope to the Cleaver is no less than 30 degrees, but every step is a challenge, giving no relief to the legs. By now the upper part of Mt. Rainier resembled a wasteland. No trees, no vegetation and no animals. Just hard windswept snow with endless mountain ranges in view around us. At that moment, I thought of my worst fear. It would be scary standing here in a whiteout condition with no shelter from a snow-storm. Surviving a bivouac at this elevation would truly be a miracle. Onto the Cleaver The beginning of the last crux is backed up with a traffic jamb of climbers again. It is a good time for a break. The two guys climbing behind us caught up to us. We exchanged stories for a ½ hour. We were from Seattle and they were from Colorado on vacation. The good climbing conversation made us forget how cold it was while we waited for the climbers in front of us to finish the crux. Finally it’s our turn! The cleaver is a narrow gully with walls of ice on each side with several crevasses to maneuver around. Brian proceeds to set up a belay of pickets while I prepare myself for the last crux of the climb. The air is real thin now and Brian and I are feeling real sluggish, but a few more athletic moves and will be at the top of this crux and the climb. With the ice wall in front of me, I use my arms to set my two ice axes in the ice above then I kick my crampons to bite into the wind swept ice below. All my ax and crampon placements give me confidence to climb higher. Climbing around a huge block of ice 40 ft up, I set a picket anchor and securely clip the rope into it. After testing to see that it is solid, I shout to Brian, “I’m in!” A big sigh of relief comes over me, I know the snow protection is ‘bomber’ and I have full confidence in Brian’s belay below me. I continue upward and take the rope out as far as it goes, placing pro as needed. I nearly catch up to the traffic when it’s my turn to set up the belay and let Brian climb up to me and finish this crux. The last crux has the same characteristics as the black pyramid crux but the wind is picking up and the air is real thin making it essential to take two to three breaths per step. The top of the Liberty Cap is coming into view now and its Brian’s turn to take us all the way. I have the belay set and he climbs on. As Brian takes those last steps over the last rope length of 50-degree snow slope, I stand amazed at his growing confidence climbing at this level. Three, two, one, Brian is over the crux running out the rope until it’s my turn. I quickly follow is steps, taking up the snow pro and three, two one, I’m over the crux! At last, 100 yards of a gradual walk and were there, Liberty Cap, the summit and a well-deserved rest. But as we see the dark clouds coming, I could be wrong about that gradual walk. |
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