Liberty Ridge-JayThis is Jay's account of our climb of the classic Liberty Ridge, on Mt. Rainier, in June of 2000. June 2-5th 2000 Five years ago I had climbed Liberty Ridge on Mt Rainier in Washington State with close climbing friends. The ridge is an advanced snow and ice-climbing route that has an elevation gain of 5000 ft. From the 9000-ft base, Liberty Ridge protrudes out of the North. Like a ramp, it rises to the Liberty Cap summit at 13,500 ft. Walls that are inset away from Liberty Ridge are the Willis wall on the east (left) and the Liberty Headwall to the west (right). With Curtis Ridge protruding out beyond the inset Willis wall on the far east like a left wing, Ptarmigan Ridge protruding out beyond the inset Liberty Headwall on the far west like a right wing. The whole north side of Mt Rainier is shaped like a large seagull in flight, and we are climbing up the back of the bird starting at the tail to the head of the seagull. “Metaphorically Speaking” Brian Kenison and I had six months of planning and preparation to embark on this three-day climb. Seeing my first time summit pictures, and going to the seminar at REI presented by me, Brian was up to the challenge. Never leading a trip by myself, I too was up to the challenge. The challenge for Brian would be the isolation of a new route, the commitment of a carry-over of all the gear, alpine ice climbing, and no turning back beyond Thumb Rock. (Thumb Rock is the high camp at 10,500 ft.) The challenge for me would be to draw out leadership from me and reassure Brian of his hidden abilities to climb ice. If weather was good for the weekend, there was the possibility of spending the night on the summit. In some ways, these individual demands weigh heavier on my mind than the 38 lbs. of pack on the back. Day One I was able to get off work early and we left Sunrise Visitor’s Center around 2 PM. We trail-hiked at a steady pace. We knew this approach would take us off the beaten path onto snow and eventually retire a few miles west, beyond St Elmo’s Pass and facing the Winthrop Glacier. Following us, were two obnoxious climbers that constantly argued the various points of climbing, and commented on many of the differences between our styles. For our entertainment we called them Mutt and Jeff. Day Two We left around 7 AM the next day. We allowed Mutt and Jeff to take the lead because they were eager to be the first to Thumb Rock (high camp) and establish a bivy site for them and also for us at Thumb Rock; so off they went. The flat snow traverse on the Winthrop glacier was non-technical. Now the views of Curtis Ridge made our conversation focus on the details of the route and the deaths that have occurred: this being one of the most treacherous routes on Rainier. This helped pass the time. Periodically, I had to ask Brian how is shoulder was. He injured it a year ago and in the back of my mind it was a factor. A reoccurring shoulder injury was something Brian or I didn’t want to deal with beyond Thumb Rock. With Liberty Ridge starting at the center of the Carbon Glacier, the reality of the climb was beginning to require an answer regarding his health. The end of the Winthrop Glacier traverse instantly brought forth a new reality of mountaineering when Liberty Ridge came into view; and sure enough, the mountain was talking to us! Break-Time 11:30A M we stopped at the edge of the Carbon Glacier on route to the base of Liberty Ridge. We had caught up to Mutt and Jeff, who, after their break, were eager to get climbing. As Brian is preparing lunch the discussion came up on route-finding. In order to get to the base of Liberty Ridge, one must maneuver through the Carbon Glacier; a maze of crevasses, seracs and snow bridges. By observation, several parties had blazed the trail for us. Mutt and Jeff started to question the pre-ordained trail saying, “This path is way too low, we must climb higher on the Carbon Ridge then traverse down and over. This is when my “Mountain Leadership” kicked in. Speaking with the sense of authority, not only for us but for them, I said, “This is the only entrance into the Carbon. If you climb higher, you will find yourself descending down a sheer rock and ice face and you don’t want to do that!” Being sure of my statement they reluctantly went on the beaten path before them. As Mutt and Jeff left they reminded us by saying, “We’ll save you guys a bivy site!” In short, they put their trust in my directions and Brian did the same. My leadership directions and reassurances all became foremost. I realized that I was becoming a different climber. (A leader) The Carbon With Mutt and Jeff far ahead of us and food and drink in us, we pack up our things and took off for Liberty. The weather was a clear and sunny 70 degrees, and snow climbing doesn’t get any better than this. Even though the snow trail took us on a maze, route finding was not difficult. Being roped up and prepared for anything, we climbed on. Through seracs, over snow bridges and having to maneuver and jump over a three-foot wide crevasse, we make it through the Carbon and to the foot of Liberty without incident. Brian took a perspective picture of two climbers that were ½ hour behind us. They crossed in front of one of the bus size crevasses reminding us of what we had accomplished. Tired and exhausted we decide to rest at the base of Liberty. So far, I was estimating our time with the ‘95 climb. Overall the terrain was better, we made better time, and the Ridge was not full of loose rock, as it was on my previous trip. We had timed this climb perfectly. Looking across the Carbon and seeing what we maneuvered through, we could see the climbers following in our tracks. Taking more pictures of them traversing the Carbon gave the glaciers, seracs, and crevasses perspective of size. “Huge! They could swallow a bus and not even burp!” Leadership 103: Reassurance |
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