Kautz Glacier (Mt. Rainier)This is my second successful trip to the top of Mt. Rainier. Weather was great, but we had some 'issues' to deal with . . . The beginning of the trip starts immediately on snow, at 5400 feet following the park's trail system for about 1.5 miles. Then, at 6200 feet, we turn left and down to the Nisqually Glacier. The glacier is so wide, it takes about 30 minutes to cross it. At the far end, it's very 'broken up', meaning heavily crevassed. we knew this so even before we started across, we roped up - 4 on one rope and 5 on the other. Up to now it's been easy (yes, lots of huffing and puffing, but no difficulties). The far end of the Nisqually is where the 'Hourglass' portion starts. This is a short portion of fairly steep snow that winds around a large rock outcropping. Here we need to keep moving as it's also the place where boulders roll when they are loosened by melting snow and ice. It's also the location of the trip's best glissade - about 2000 feet of water-slide like traveling!! By this time we can see how the team is reacting to the pace, the weather (at this time it's misty and warm), and the immenseness of the Mountain. Gordon is the tallest and perhaps the strongest of the group. He looks most like a mountaineer (whatever that means) slender and a quick learner. Next is Jarrett, built like a football player, stocky and strong, very sharp. Jarrett is also brother of Leif, who is similar in build only 'softer'. Although fairly strong, we could sense that his commitment to the attempt is far less than the others. Mark is friend of most of the group. He attends my church and plays guitar for the Youth Group. He's about my height, but outweighs me by 25 pounds. He had the most trouble due to the fact, I believe, he didn't follow the recommendations for water intake. He was tough and was the first of the party to reach the summit. Jim is closest to my size, very easy going and willing to stay back so that Mark could go for the summit. Nancy, wife of Leif was a trip. Physically, she probably would have had no problem, but her hangups were devastating. At the first sign of steepness, we all discovered that she has this fear of heights (there's really no height to be concerned with, it's just a big mountain). But her stubbornness and vocalizing her dissatisfaction with things made things rather miserable for some. At one moment she would be thoroughly enjoying the event, then without a moment's notice, she'd be yelling, crying and whining like a spoiled brat (later I found out she was a spoiled brat - used to getting her own way all the time). Both Barry and Jay gave of themselves for the trip, through helping, encouraging, comforting and leading by example. I could sure use a foot massage now. Even after two days, my feet are still sore. My lips are a bit red from the sun but otherwise, I did a good job with the sunblock. It was sunny the whole time. Mountain sun is much more intense than lower elevations, plus you need to be aware of sun that's reflected from the snow. Day 2 it was evident that Nancy wasn't going any further up nor were we ready to take her down at the expense of the team. ( I much prefer your kind of emotional tendencies than her explosive, dual personality kind!) After a lot of discussion of options and prayer (literally), Barry Jay and I decided that we'd take one rope tam of 5 to high camp and to the summit. This meant that one 'guide' would stay behind at low camp because the others weren't experienced at mountain camping in the snow and winter travel. The decision was made by the group, however and not dictated by us, so there was a consensus decision. Jay, Nancy, Leif and Jim stayed behind. So, at about 11 AM, the summit team, Barry, me, Jarrett, Gordon and Mark took off for Camp Hazard in the hot sunshine, gaining 2500 feet in 2.5 hours. At both camps we were fortunate enough to have glacier run-off for water which helped conserve fuel, because we didn't need to melt snow or ice to make water. Meals consisted of the camper's dehydrated type (which are surprisingly tasty), so all we needed to do is boil water for food, tea or cider. I did most of the 'cooking'. Sleeping arrangements were two types: the 'clients' shared two tents (3 per) and the 'guides' flattened out a section of snow, spread out the bivy bags, inserted sleeping bags and climbed in. I enjoy this now, because I can watch the stars and the evening light show ( shooting stars, clouds, moonshine and sometimes we can make out a satellite) The first night, while sleeping, it rained a little, but I was cozy (but not even close to how cozy I am with you!!). we woke to a nice clear day. Loading up our 50 pound packs, after a late start, we arrived at our first camp late -9:30PM. Luckily, it's still fairly light out for another hour. This gave us time to prepare the campsite for tents, bivys and the 'kitchen'. to keep everyone busy, we assigned duties such as fetching water for cooking, drinking and keeping the water bottles filled. Then there's the task of smoothing and packing the snow enough to fit the tents. Once all these details were complete, and everyone was fed and the area picked up, we went to sleep -or tried to. Seems that Mark is the king of snores and mad a racket all night long. Gordon was in his tent, but wasn't bothered by it. Why? Because he used ear plugs when he slept. Since there was no hurry to get anywhere this first night, we all woke whenever wanted, had a leisurely breakfast and began the process of deciding what to do with the team. Once we got all the emotion out of Nancy, it was clear that the wise thing to do was for her to stay at low camp. This wasn't a popular choice in her eyes because she wanted out -now! But we were not about to let one individual to ruin a trip for the rest of the group, especially since there really was nothing wrong except that she realized she was in over her head. So Jay, Barry and I went of and discussed the options, prayed for the group and for wisdom, then came back with 3 choices. They chose the one that we preferred, but it was their choice, not ours, so they felt better about it. |
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