Mt. Stuart - Cascadian CouloirIn September 1999, I climbed Mt. Stuart for the first time with two friends, one of whom - Doug - chose a solo climb of the West Ridge while Gene and I opted for the non-technical route Cascadian Couloir. Mount Stuart, located in the central Cascades of Washington, is the "single greatest mass of (exposed) granite in the United States." At 9,415 feet, it is also the tallest non-volcanic mountain in Washington, as well as the state's sixth tallest mountain. Climbing Mt. Stuart via any of the myriad of possible routes is a long and strenuous undertaking, usually taking from one to three or four days. Most routes leading to the summit are technical that requires advanced mountaineering skills utilizing ropes and protective gear placements. An opportunity to climb one of the non-technical routes, the Cascadian Couloir, came as a friend from work, Gene, asked if I was interested. Since I injured myself earlier in the season, I canceled several climbing trips that I had planned. Therefore this was a welcome opportunity to return into the mountains, not for a small hike, but for a substantial trip culminating at a peak high above anything else for miles around. In addition to Gene and myself, another climber, Doug, joined us. Although our destinations were the same, Doug would be soloing a more difficult route, the West Ridge, and hopefully meet up with us for our descent. Even though this trip can be accomplished, from beginning to end, in one day, we agreed that a three-day, two-night trip would be much more enjoyable. Watching the weather, we decided that a Friday noontime departure and a Saturday summit bid would ensure the best chance of success. We left from work at noon and braved the Labor Day traffic in three separate vehicles to the Issaqua Park and Ride. Joining together in Gene's Explorer we drove the 2 hours east on I-90 toward Cle Elem and the Teanaway River region where Mt. Stuart sits, some 20 miles inland of the highway. So, by 3 PM, we were finally on the trail and on our way. We begin the hike by taking the Ingalls trail toward Ingalls Lake. This is actually the trailhead for several other destinations: Esmerelda Peak, Fortune Peak, Ingalls Peak and Longs Pass. Our destination is Longs Pass, about 2½ miles from the trailhead. Being late in the season, the way is dry as we proceed through the alpine forest. As we hike upward, we notice that the terrain is quickly changing from the alpine growth to a drier, almost barren appearance. To the north, we see several peaks void of trees and thick vegetation. The trail is easy, as it's a well-traveled path to a popular destination - Ingalls Lake. However, after 2 miles, we turn right and head up a steep bare trail leading to Long's Pass. As we pass a few switchbacks, I notice that the trail intersects an old road that I remember was used to ferry ore and lumber from the hills in the 1930's. At the top of the pass, a cold wind kicks up as it rushes up from the valley below and we get out first look at Mt. Stuart! Standing at 9,415 feet and still a long way off, it's breathtaking that we'll soon be on its slopes ascending to the top. Below, we see that we must travel into the valley and lose some 1500 feet of elevation, cross Ingalls Creek and make camp. From the top of the Pass, we descend into the valley. The slope begins steep and tricky with a loose rocky path to follow for the first few hundred feet. This soon changes as the path takes us into the valley bottom, lush with vegetation. Ferns, deciduous trees, pines, cedars and larches fight for space along the moist gentle slopes of the valley. In a few more weeks, the golden larch trees near Ingall's Pass here in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness will be changing colors. The larch has pine-like needles that turn yellow and orange in the fall. We follow a creek bed as our trail and I notice at least a dozen different species of flowers, all in bloom, dotting, decorating and accenting the shades of green of the plush meadows before me. The scene before me is so pretty I stop to take notice. Contrast the softness of the foliage and the rich, earthy smells of the valley bottom with angular granite blocks of Mt. Stuart rising steeply above me, I'm in awe at the beauty before me. My alarm goes off at 5AM (did I really think I would get up this early?). Through hazy eyes, I attempt to read the backlit time on my watch. Good thing I set the second alarm for 5:15, because I'm not going anywhere - yet. However, before alarm number two goes off, 15 minutes from the first, I feel the mountain beckoning me, urging me to move. Finally, we stir and begin preparations for the day. Breakfast is first on the agenda, and I prepare a pot of boiling water for cider and oatmeal. While the water heats, Gene retrieves the food from the bear bag hanging nearby. (No signs of bear today!) We begin packing for the short trip along Ingalls Creek to the open space, a meadow, leading up to the Cascadian Couloir. By 7 AM, we've eaten, prepared 3 liters of water each, packed and are on our way. The sunrise, though veiled by the trees, showed bright and pink, indicating that we have a cloud cover - clouds that were not expected until later that evening or even the next day. Not certain where the path leading to the Couloir breaks from the main trail, we travel slowly. However, soon we break free of the tree cover that fills the valley bottom, to an open meadow area sloping upward to my left. To my right is another campsite area that can accommodate many campers. (We'll stay here tonight, after the climb). Not much further on, I see a faint "boot-path" to my left, leading in the general direction we want to go, and head upward. As we move away from the valley bottom, we enter the meadow that is sparsely treed and filled with tall grasses, flowers and bugs. The view of the mountain is directly before us, leading upward for some 5000 vertical feet and will remain so for the entire climb. Since we have all our gear with us and only need a portion, (food, clothes, water, rope) we find a location next to a large boulder in the middle of the meadow where we can "stash" what we don't want to carry. To mark the location, I tie a piece of orange surveyor's tape I brought to the top of a tree. I'll use this tape along the way as we ascend, so that on the descent, we can find our way back and find our gear! (As it turns out, the route back is very easy and the markers are not necessary.) |
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