Forbidden Peak

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The road to Cascade Pass ends with a dramatic view of Johannesburg Mtn, and her famous 'hanging glaciers'.
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The car is secure, and we prepare for the first leg of the trip - a steep 4-mile hike along a climber's path to Boston Basin.
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After a grueling traverse through a half-mile of falen trees from last year's avalanche activity, we emerge from the alpine zone and view Forbidden for the first time.
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The heat and sweat are all but forgotten as we bathe our feet in the icy stream (Jay decided for the full-body plunge!)
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The water moves swiftly from the rapidly melting snows of the Quien Sabe Glacier that leads to the summit of Sahale Peak.
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An abrupt turn left and upward, we follow a narrow trail which will bring us to high camp, elevation 6200 feet, and at the base of the mountain.
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The plush, green tundra, full of color, buzzes with insect life as we quickly approach the campsite.
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In a land of contrasts, thickly padded grasses survive next to glacier polished rock that yields to a melting cover of snow.
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Morning opens with a colorful promise of fair skies and pleasant temperatures.
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Once above camp, we scramble over smooth rocks and onto a steep slope, crampons digging securely into the hard snow.
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Johannesburg Mtn looms in the distance as I continue toward the base of Forbidden.
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Just below a narrow couloir, we gear up and prepare for the beginning of the climb.
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A look back at the valley, just before entering into the couloir.
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Another look back as the sun begins to illuminate the peaks.
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Geared up and all set to climb, our first challenge is to cross the small moat at the couloir enterance.
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The narrow couloir, or gully, we will follow. Notice the break in the snow near the top of the snow finger - this is a moat, our first objective.
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One more view of the sunrise ... and off we go!
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Jay and I pause for a bit on this pile of sandy rock, just below the snow gully.
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Time to get moving. Jay moves out in front, while I follow up the snow gully.
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Just above the small, but steep 'moat' which required a big step and tow ice tools, Jay leads on.
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Well inside the gully, I'm climbing while on belay.
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Near the belay. This was a fun snow pitch climb!
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From deep within the gully and looking eastward toward Sahale Peak.
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We're not quite at the notch and the beginning of the true climb. Jay takes over lead, after I climbed a chimney and a face to another belay.
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Ahhh! At the notch at last and now the real climbing will begin. Jay, with Johannesburg and Glacier Peak in the distance.
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